Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
