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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.